The trek from Khumbu over the Salpa La to the Arun Valley starts on the main Everest tourist 'highway' in Solu Khumbu and diverts into more adventurous parts heading southeast through the eastern district of Sankhuwasabha, crossing three ranges and two major rivers to reach the Arun Valley. It is an interesting traverse through a variety of cultures and ecosystems. The route follows the same ground, albeit in reverse as H.W. Tilman on his approach to the Khumbu Valley in the autumn of 1950.

If you've already done the big three - Khumbu, Annapurna and Langtang, then this might be your next challenge. The trek from the Khumbu to the Arun Valley would make an ideal add-on following a successful trek in Khumbu, and a 'backdoor' alternative to the common Jiri 'walk-out'. Some sections of the trek can be very steep and are more taxing than anything on the main Solu-Khumbu trek despite the generally lower altitudes. There are some precarious bridge crossings but nothing really dangerous, given that there is in fact a long established porter route along much of the way. Even for the novice trekker the route should not be out of the question, given a little commonsense.

You can finish the Arun Valley trek at the Tumlingtar Airstrip, or further south at the road-head near Hille. There is enough of interest along the way not to rush this trek, however be aware that there may be a day or two waiting for the plane if flying out from Tumlingtar.

The route can be strenuous at times crossing three sizable passes up to 3350m. You might at times crane your neck to see the path ahead as it climbs into the clouds above. For the most part these climbs look worse than they are, but this trek is certainly a step up in difficulty from the Jiri to Lukla route. Trekking in places like this can be as much psychologically, as physically demanding, however, the trek is not difficult if taken at a sensible pace. At times it can be a very remote and wonderful landscape, however, disappointingly, other than at one or two viewpoints, there are not great mountain views.

Culturally, the Arun Trek is very interesting - moving from Sherpa through to Rai villages, then down to Chhetri and Brahmin villages. Despite the chain of basic lodges, impromptu lodgings can be found in keeping with traditional hospitality throughout Eastern Nepal. Only one village, probably Brahmin, insisted that I should continue on my way, and would provide me no food or lodging - otherwise you will usually find helpful and generous people when you need them.

The Arun Trek remains off the main tourist map being so don't expect a great social scene. With the lack of general development along the way the villages and their inhabitants retain a certain innocence to the Western eye. In early May 2001 I saw on average one other trekker per day. While most of the apple-pie crowd remains quite unaware of the existence of this easily accessible trek, the lodges are there and are eagerly awaiting guests.

The day-by-day itinerary described is a generally fairly conservative. Feel free to walk through to the next stop, but make sure that you allow plenty of time to reach your destination well before dark. In these times it would be unwise to continue trekking or wander too far after dark.

I accept these words of guidance are a little sketchy and lacking detail at times. Please feel free to offer updates and corrections using the comment system on the trekking pages

Happy trails

Richard Beatson

Either fly into Lukla or continue on with your trek from Khumbu. I suggest you make this an easy day, finishing at Puiyan(Paiya). From Lukla it's reasonably easy to make Puiyan with a few hours. If you'd rather carry on, you might bypass some of the route described and stay on the main trail to Bupsa or Khari Khola.

Start the Arun Valley Trek by leaving the popular Everest tourist trail and contour above the Dudh Kosi valley through country that sees little tourist traffic to Pangum. At times the terrain can be frustrating, with the trail diverting into side valleys and being far from a direct line to Pangum, however it is interesting country to trek.

Today's walk is relatively short but not easy, surmounting Satu La, the first of three passes on the trek and crossing the Inukhu valley. Basically this means a big decent followed by the inevitable ascent. There are a couple of trail options but it is recommended that you finish the day in the small hamlet of Najingdingma just below the second pass, Surkie La.

Cross the second major ridge feature then descend into the fertile and increasingly populated Hongu valley. It is generally an easy and very interesting days trekking.

Make a difficult climb out of the Hongu, then continue the first stage of the ascent to Salpa Bhanjyang. This more remote section of the route makes a brief return into Sherpa-country with plenty of beautiful waterfalls and woodlands.

Continue the climb though a wonderful forest to Salpa La, the highest point of the trek. Perhaps visit the lake at Salpa Pokhari near the pass which is sacred to Hinduism. Make a huge descent into the warmer climes of the Irkhuwa Valley, a tributary of the Arun basin.

Make an easy day's walk following the Irkhuwa Khola to meet the Arun, first major river east of the Dudh Kosi. The only real obstacle will be the crossing of a large spur, which may present some minor route finding problems. Finally, cross the Arun itself and continue an easy descent.

Take it easy on the homerun. Following the Arun, finish the trek on relatively easy trails, or if you'd rather continue further downstream towards Hille. There should be plenty of time later for a swim in a side stream.