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Arun Trek


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  Day 7 Salpa Phedi to Chyawabesi

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Time (excluding rests)

9 hours

Distance

kilometres

Make an easy day's walk following the Irkhuwa Khola to meet the Arun, first major river east of the Dudh Kosi. The only real obstacle will be the crossing of a large spur, which may present some minor route finding problems. Finally, cross the Arun itself and continue an easy descent.



Morning in Balawa Besi

It's a pleasant stroll as you follow the Irkhuwa Khola as it bends in a slow descent to the Arun. Some impressive waterfalls fall from the surrounding jungle covered ridges. This valley will certainly provide rich pickings for birdwatchers. Further downstream at Tala(also known as Tendor, and as Tallophedi) a new building was being built in 2001 which could be a new lodge (possibly a school?), but please don't rely on this. Near Tala you may see several operations making natural Lokta paper along the way. The raw material is sourced from the bark of the Daphne bush. From a distance the drying frames may resemble lines of deck chairs in the sun. Porters carry away towering bundles of this paper and the finished natural paper product eventually ends up for sale in Kathmandu or farther afield.

You will at some point have to cross the river on the rickety bamboo bridges. Watch your footing and try to be confident as you cross the torrent on the slippery bamboo trunks - Be thankful that you aren't walking bare foot with a loaded doko on your back. Be sure to unfasten hip and chest straps on your backpack before attempting to cross. It would probably be wise to avoid the monsoonal period for this trek as the flimsy bamboo bridges here often have to be re-built yearly and may not be easily passable. Slippery paths, lingering cloud and sodden, leech infested jungle make another good reasons to avoid the months of June til August.

Dhobane lies at the rivers confluence with the Tumlung Khola which must be crossed to stay on the true right bank of the Irkhuwa. There are places where basic food may be had and perhaps a bed. It is also possible to make your way to a point further south on the Arun and the village of Nepalidanda via a route through the hills to your south, however route finding may be difficult and lodging may be more difficult to come by.

The trail descends so gently that you probably won't realise how much elevation you are losing. On a hot day you might find some good swimming places. There are some shops and tea stalls at Dhobane (920m). Cross a side-stream near Gothe Bazaar (775m) switching between the north and south banks of the Irkhuwa Khola when necessary. It is possible to camp near Tipchaur (510m). Here the houses are often elevated on poles above the ground allowing air to circulate beneath the floor for welcome cooling on those warm nights. There are supposedly trails on both sides of the Irkuwa Khola. Don't worry if you find yourself on the wrong side of the river as there is a swing bridge ahead near the base of the river putting you onto the true right bank. The better track to follow may change annually.

Consult your map and locate the major spur ahead where the Irkuwa Khola meets the Arun. Route finding goes to hell for a couple of hours here and crossing this spur is perhaps the one spot where the trail becomes difficult to follow. As long as you have a general idea of where you want to go, by following your nose and perhaps with a little local help you shouldn't go too far wrong. The general idea is to keep heading southeast by climbing up and around this hill gradually turning south. There seems to be much confusion between all guidebooks, maps and local advice as to the most correct route over this hill - unfortunately I can't enlighten you too much more. You may find yourself heading through someone's back yard and open fields. It would be advisable to keep asking any locals you meet for the trail to Kartike Pul or Tumlingtar (kun baato Tumlingtar jaanchha?). Pass a large chautaara with pipal trees then climb through (or past) the Chhetri village of Charlissay. The trail might pass a Nepali style Ferris wheel near the crest at approximately 915m, then heads downward again and turns south. A house in a meadow at Majawa (Mardura?) may offer accommodation. Don't be surprised at the inflated price of some items such as a cup of coffee in this area - you're still a long way from Kathmandu - so agree prices before ordering. The villages in this area are a mix of Rai and Brahmin(and perhaps the occasional Gurung) settlements. Don't be offended if you are refused food or accommodation in this area.

In May at Majawa, the rooster starts up at 3.30am and the first rays of the sun are beating down shortly after 4am. By 8am the Arun valley can be a sauna, so make sure you take plenty of drinks stops. The heat can be oppressive throughout the year, so get your walking done early in the day.

The mighty Arun will appear quite suddenly strong and silent like a deep green snake running southward in the valley below. The path winds on through sub tropical woodland down to the village of Balawa Besi on the true right bank of the Arun. This is a pleasant walk to make early in the morning. Take the path through the rice paddies, shortly arriving at Kartike Pul (Khatteghat). If you are keen to continue, cross to the true left bank of the Arun over the long suspension bridge here. You may be asked to pay a small toll before crossing. From here on its an easy walk on relatively flat ground all the way to Tumlingtar and beyond. On a ridge a short distance to the south of Kartike Pul is the village of Dingla - nearby which is a source of rudaraksha seeds, held to be auspicious to Hindus throughout the sub-continent and often used for beads for religious necklaces.

Where possible you may find it a refreshing change to walk barefoot on the sandy beach along the riverside to arrive shortly at the Chhetri village of Chyawabesi where there are several small lodges. If you are lucky you might catch the bougainvilleas blooming about the village. Now you've hit the Arun you might even find a little fish (macha) on the menu.



© Richard Beatson 2004

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