Continue the climb though a wonderful forest to Salpa La, the highest point of the trek. Perhaps visit the lake at Salpa Pokhari near the pass which is sacred to Hinduism. Make a huge descent into the warmer climes of the Irkhuwa Valley, a tributary of the Arun basin.

This can be a long day so don't feel that you have to go all the way to Salpa Phedi, there are lodges at Thulo Fokte, perhaps 6-7 hours from Sanam. This might also be an especially good day to take a packed lunch. Ensure you fill up on fluids as there may be little water available for much of the day.

The trail turns north crossing the Lidung Khola and passing through a clearing then gradually steepening thru a truly magnificently forested valley covered with hanging moss starts the climb towards Salpa La/Salpa Bhanjyang (3349m). The climb turns east again and becomes relentless on well formed but seemingly endless stone steps. Eventually the fir, spruce, hemlock and rhododendron forests thin to open out towards a large chorten at the pass itself about 3 hours climb from Sanam. A tea stop at the summit may be open - if so don't expect much more than a glass of dudh ciya and some good conversation. It is possible that the pass will be snowbound during winter months - if so, local traffic may not be enough to keep the route open, and route finding may be difficult after snowfall. As the pass summit is exposed with no guaranteed accommodation for quite some distance do not under estimate or attempt a crossing in low visibility or in bad weather. Back to the northwest, the peaks of Katang and Numbur may still be visible in clear weather.

From the pass summit it is possible to visit nearby Salpa Pokhari (3460m), a small lake sacred to Hindus. The sometimes-steep path along the ridge to the north takes about 30 minutes. If you can deduce the dates of the fair held twice annually here don't miss it. From the lake there is an alternative direct trail down to Garunse, otherwise return to the pass itself before descending. With more time it is possible to climb to further past the Lake to Silingchuk (4156m), the peak higher on the ridge. There is an alternate multi-day route(not described) to the Arun Valley by following the main ridge south to Bhojpur, then crossing the Arun at Sati Ghat.

An hour below the pass on a small plateau at Guranse (2880m) are several simple bamboo roofed herders shelters (goTh) bordering an open meadow. If anyone is in residence the dogs will let you know. Put some faith in the Nepali proverb, which claims "a barking dog does not bite" - even so give them a wide berth as they are only doing their job. At Garunse, also known as Tandse Dingma, there is a seasonal pond here which may be able to provide some water for those wishing to camp. The however this may well be dry in spring and the water quality may be suspect at other times.

From Salpa La the near 3000m-drop to the Arun will be taxing on the joints - If you've just spent a few of weeks in Khumbu your knees may be complaining a little by this point so take it easy as there is a lot of elevation to lose to reach the base of the ridge. Be sure to appreciate the view before you continue the descent - you should be able to make out the Milke Danda, a large ridge across the Arun to the east and possibly even the Kanchenjunga massif far to the northeast. Beware that in cloud or bad weather the trail down from the pass could easily be missed here - head for the large rock outcrop across the meadow and follow the narrow path as it threads through the rocks and down the high rhododendron forested ridge.

Keeping heading east on the sometimes-steep trail. You might take a moment to gather your breath at one of a series of chautaara along the way. These are formed from moss-covered stone neatly dug into the bank, perhaps with a mantra or dedication inscription on the backrest, and are quite unlike others found further west. The route from the Arun over Salpa La has long been used by porters from villages such as Gudel to supply the Hongu and even perhaps as far as Namche Bazaar.

At Thulo Fokte (2140m) there are two lodges if you are feeling the "sahib's knee". If you stay here, you might respectfully ask to check out the family shrine in an upstairs room of the lodge on the south side of the trail. There are also another two hotels further down the ridge in Jau Bari(means barley field), also known as Upper Phedi. Again the path becomes a formed stone staircase.

Discreetly watch the porters, often Tamang as they struggle upwards. Note the taunko, the T-shaped stick carried and how it is used as resting stool, prop and walking stick, this being different again than you might have seen in Solu, and in other areas of Nepal. More often than not porters will carry their loads barefoot.

Salpa Phedi (1680m), another large Rai village lies on a prow at the base of the ridge and is sited at the confluence of the Sabu Khola and the larger Irkuwa Khola. There are two hotels here, one Rai and the other operated by a Sherpa family. Both sit side by side at the base of the village and I can vouch for the quaint little rooms in the Sherpa Hotel. Although Phedi itself is a bit of a chicken pit, the surroundings and hotel grounds are quite pleasant and it may be tempting to stop here. Feel free to spend a rest day relaxing in the sun under the hotel pergola or down by the river. You may note that the temperature has risen sharply since the descent from the pass. If in spring, stop to appreciate the variety of flowers and the butterflies at this altitude.