Day 14 Remche to Syabru Bensi

Remche Syabru Bensi Latitude 28°09.55'N 28°10.00'N Longitude 85°25.44'E 85°21.00'E Altitude 2,557 metres 1,400 metres Ascent 202 metres Descent 1,359 metres Time (excluding rests) 4 hours Distance 12 kilometres

The view back to Syarpagaon...

The route from Remche takes the higher path, favoured by the locals. This upper trail starts between the kitchen and dormitory of the Hotel Ganesh View. The trail ascends onto the dry south facing side of the valley.        A section of the path is across logs laid on steel bars hammered into the cliff, a Langtang speciality (35 minutes). Pass a flagpole marking the beginning of the village of Syarpagaon. (1 hour). Despite its name ‘Sherpa village’ it is not occupied by Sherpas, but by Tamangs and Tibetans. Pass the village fields and two lodges: Tibet Lodge Tashi Deli Lodge

Distilling Rakshi for the new year - it's best to start early... Syabru may be seen on the other side of the valley - well only just...

Both the lodges were closed, but I was invited into a large Tibetan home, a most interesting experience. The lady of the house was distilling that excellent Nepalese spirit, rakshi, a most commendable occupation, in my opinion. In the roof beams were carved numerous symbols - this is a Tibetan new year tradition.        The path forks on leaving the village - take the upper fork, under a tree, past a large prayer wall, hidden by the tree. Pass a house and walk through the millet fields, the raw material for rakshi. Cross a stream. (1 hour 25 minutes). Pass a prayer wall (1 hour 40 minutes). Cross a stream (1 hour 50 minutes) and reach the crest of a ridge (2 hours). [91;28°09.69’N 85°22.88’E 2,759 metres].        The path gently descends with great views to the south including Syabru and Sing Gompa. By a ‘gendarme’ (natural chorten) with a prayer flag on it, descend from the ridge into the forest. Pass a level area with many ruined houses. This area has many paths, you should follow the line of prayer flags to the village of Khanjum, below at 1,900 metres. (2 hours 45 minutes). There is a lodge here, where I sheltered from the rain.

But thanks to image enhancement software, Syabru can be seen in this photo...                   This is where you buy your bus tickets...

Leave the village by descending the narrow path alongside the stream. (Do not contour around the hillside to the right, as that alternative broad path leads to Tibet).        The path then forks by a prayer flag, just before a stream (2 hours 50 minutes). Take the RIGHT hand fork. Descend and you will soon arrive at the quaint village of Wankel (3 hours 25 minutes), named after the German inventor of the rotary internal combustion engine. Honest! [Yeah right, trekkers who’ve been alone on the road for too long more like... - sub editor]        Continue left (south) and soon Syabru Bensi comes into view (3 hours 35 minutes). Pass a waterfall in a cave. After 4 hours, cross the suspension bridge , with its dodgy wooden deck over the Bhote Khosi, to reach Syabru Bensi High Street. The bridge was buit in 1970, and has probably not had its deck replaced since then. Syabru Bensi        Here there are abundant hotels in Syabru Bensi. You should find a hotel, and then buy a ticket on the bus to Kathmandu, which leaves at 7am each morning. You can do this from a small kiosk in the high street, or alternatively your hotel landlord may do this for you. Don’t panic if there are no tickets left, you can probably still get on the bus, but you will have to stand.        There are telephones available in Syabru Bensi, however, if you want to order a taxi, you need to know who you are calling and their phone number. Last updated June 2000 - copyright Ian Johnson

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