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Day 10 Paiya to Lukla |
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Of course, you can avoid the previous ten days by flying in to Lukla - however the price is altitude sickness
Kwangde East Pillar |
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Today's trek culminates in the delights of Lukla.
Close up of Kwangde East Pillar from Lukla Leave Khari Khola and pass through the small village. Cross the Kahri Khola river, and then pass through the small village of Chheubas, which must be the only village in Solu-Khumbu without lodges [27° 39.14N 86° 42.99E 2,783 metres] (50 minutes). Pass the Khumbla New Lama Guest House, which is a great place to stay on account of the fine views up and down the valley [27° 39.19N 86° 42.85E 2,736 metres] (1 hour). The mountain you see in the far distance to the north is Khumbui Yul Lha, which lies just above the village of Khumjung. As you walk the path, you can hear, rising from over a kilometre below, the roar from the mighty Dudh Kosi river. Round a corner, the blue metal roofs of Lukla come into view in the far distance. You'll see the constant aviation traffic. From here, begin the long descent to Surke. Pass the Mountain View Lodge. By the bridge over the Surke Khola is the magnificent Everest Trail Lodge [27° 49.25N 86° 43.31E 2,338 metres] (2 hours). Cross the bridge, and pass the:
Begin the ascent by passing a pile of prayer stones. Cross a stream and pass a small restaurant (2 hours 30 minutes). Pass some small houses and cross a steel bridge. Follow the path past a large boulder, passing yet another teahouse. Finally arrive at the bottom end of the Lukla Airport runway. The airport was built by Sir Edmund Hillary's Himalayan Trust in 1964. The land was bought from the local villagers for US$645, a huge sum in those days. Lukla is the arrival point for the vast majority of trekkers into the Khumbu region. You are now entering a region of mass tourism. As you walk up the hill to Lukla, you will be met by the overpowering smell of raw sewage, burning plastic and rotting food. Rubbish, ranging from crashed aircraft to toilet paper, is strewn around everywhere. An open sewer runs through the main street. The noise from planes taking off wakes everyone each morning. The only reason for coming here is to leave. Don't forget to advance book your plane ticket for the end of the trek. In Lukla itself, there are hundreds of lodge to choose from. My advice is to choose one as far uphill as you can find (to get away from the sewage), and as far away from the airport as you can get (to get away from the noise). Lukla has similar shopping to Thamel in Kathmandu and supplies of all sorts can be bought here. |
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© Ian Johnson 2003 |